Sicilian hospitality

Every day I come to the Bar Turrisi first thing in the morning (ok, well this has been more like 10 or 10:30 since they have been keeping me up late at night) and have a brioche with a granita siciliana. This is something like a sorbet crossed with ice cream. I'm not entirely sure how to explain it, except to say that it is the most delicious thing this side of Sicily (and that is saying a lot!). Also, it's a pretty typical Sicilian breakfast. My favorite flavor is almond, which they top off with a bit of coffee-flavored granita.

And every day, I try to pay for my breakfast, and am flat out refused. The Turrisis have been incredibly good to me. Yesterday I asked to buy a "subscription" to granitas with brioche, and Rosetta, the mom of the family, agreed. Whether she lets me pay for this at the end of the month is another question!

Last night I had a glass of the wonderful almond wine here at the bar, and at the end of the evening found myself haggling with Salvo Turrisi (one of the sons) over the price. In other words, I offered two euros, he countered with one. I gave him one, and he decided it was too much, so he asked for 30 cents. I took out all my change and put it on the counter, and slid him a twenty-cent pieces, a two-cent piece and a couple of pennies (I didn't have a ten). He gave me back the pennies, suggesting I might need them for the market, and finally accepted the 20-cents.

I'm not used to this sort of bargaining! But I am extremely grateful. And don't worry, I will be doing my utmost to smuggle a bottle of almond wine back to the class for everyone to try! :-)

I almost forgot—today begins the week-long Taormina (Taormina is just down the mountainfilm festival. I will definitely be checking it out. It's a big one.

This afternoon I am taking to the hills to film some friends do controlled burnings of their fields—this is how they prevent the brush fires that are sure to begin soon from reaching their crops and houses. In my treatment, some of you may remember I spoke of a woman farming and explaining her crops. This is the same woman I had in mind. It should be exciting!